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| Canal Grande |
Most of Venice may be a maze of canals and alleys but there are particular places where people walk or gather, usually campi (squares) or fondamente (waterside promenades). The city is divided into six sestrieri: to the north and east of Grand Canal, San Marco is in the center, Castello to the east and Cannaregio to the west; to the south and west, Dorsoduro lies across the Grand canal from San Marco with San Polo, then Santa Croce to the north. The aquatic highway by which most of the sestrieri are reached is the main street of the city and that is, of course, the Grand canal.
Following the course of an original creek through the muddy islands of the lagoon, the serpentine canal sweeps in two great curves from what is now the Santa Lucia railway station to the Basin of San Marco. it varies in width from 130 to 230 feet, has a max depth of 18 feet and is crossed by three bridges - the Scalzi, the Rialto and the Accademia and seven traghetto (ferry gondola)routes. Travelling eastwards along the Grand canal, some of the principal buildings between the railway station and the Rialto Bridge are, on the left hand side, the Scalzi, San Geremia and San Marcuola churches and the palaces Ca'Labia, Ca Vendramin - Calergiand the Ca'd'Oro. On the right hand side are the San Simeone Piccolo and San Stae churches, the palaces Fondaco dei Turchi and Ca'Favretto and then the fish, fruit and vegetable markets just before the Rialto Bridges. Between the Rialto and the Accademia bridges are, on the left hand side, the church of San Samuele and the Ca'Mocenigo
The most romantic views in Venice
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| Cafe Florian |
The Piazza San Marco is the heart of Venice. When Napoleon conquered the Venetian Republic he called ,the most elegant drawing room in Europe', and so it still is. At the eastern end stands the Basilica di San Marco with its Byzantine domes; to one side is its campanile, the Piazzetta outside the Doges Palace and the Basin of San marco; to the other the Clock Tower and the Piazzetta dei Leoncini, named after the red marble lions standing there. The north side of the Piazza is bounded by the Procuratie Vecchie, the former offices of the Republic's administration, with an arcade of shops below and the Cafe Quadri, once patronised by the Austrian occupiers of Venice. On the south side are the former administration building, the Procuratie Nuove, with another arcade of shops and the Cafe Florian, the favorite of Venetian patriots during the Austrian occupation. At the western end of the Piazza, the church of San Geminiano was demolished on Napoleon's orders and a new arcade with a ballroom above was built. The two granite columns near the water's edge in the Piazzetta were set up in the 12-th century; one is surmounted by a stone Lon of St. Mark, the other by the figure of St. Theodore, the first patron saint of the city, proudly wielding shield and spear.
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| Cafe Quadri |
The Riva degli Shiavoni is the principal waterside promenade of Venice, running eastwards from the Doges Palace to the Ca'di Dio canal, where its name changes; then continuing to the Giardini (public gardens. After the Doges Palace and the adjoining State Prison comes the Hotel Danieli and a succession of other grand hotels facing the Basin of San Marco. The wide, paved Riva, broken by a succession of bridges over canals, is cluttered with cafe tables and souvenir - sellers, stalls at its western end, while its waterside is busy with vaporetto piers and the pleasure boats and tugs that moor there. Leading from the Riva to the north are many alleys and archways running into the maze of the city and to a few squares, notably the Campo San Zaccaria and the Campo Bandiera e Moro. Beyond the canal leading to the Arsenale, lie the Giardini, the public gardens, rather dusty and unkempt but with fine tall trees, among which are the pavilions where the Biennale art exhibition is held. This rare open space is where Napoleon demolished the buildings to lay out defensive batteries.
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| View over Canal Grande |
The choice of pleasant accommodation for visitors on a low budget is limited, but there are some gems of pensioni with historical or literary associations or fine views to compensate for any lack of luxury.
Bucintoro - The best view of Venice from any hotel is from here. All the bedroom windows overlook the Riva degli Schiavoni, the Basin of San Marco and the island of San Giorgio, the Salute and the Doges Palace beyond. Run by a delightful family, it is cosy rather than smart and has its own restaurant, so offering half-board.
Calcina - another fine view of water - in this casethe canale Giudecca - is from the Calcina, the small hotel on the Zattere, where Ruskin stayed while writing The Stones of Venice. Partly modernized and lacking some of its former modest charm, it is a friendly little hotel and a favorite with British visitors.
Suggested Reading:
Eating Out in Venice
Venice Islands
Booking Hotel in Venice
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